When in Nuremberg…

Nuremberg has a lot to offer for a city break, especially during the festive season. With its famous Christkindlesmarkt filling the main square and pretty much all of the streets around it, you’d be hard pushed to want for anything more. Add to that the historical significance that Nuremberg played in the Nazi rallies and eventual trials and it really is a unique destination.

When visiting Nuremberg, two things are guaranteed, you will eat a lot and you will walk a lot, but if you’re lucky, the two will balance each other out. With different traditional foods to sample at every turn, it would be a shame not to try as many as you can. That being said, Nuremberg is a fairly small city, so you can easily walk to most places, so at least you have the opportunity to burn off some of the extra calories.

One word of warning, Nuremberg is not a place for night owls, the Christmas market stalls close at 9pm, with bars and restaurants following shortly after at 11pm.

Eating & Drinking
For breakfast – Cafe & Bar Celona Finca
When sitting in this cosy restaurant on an island on the Pegnitz river, with its rustic wood and cosy blankets, you could easily stay for the long haul.

You have the option to choose from the a la carte menu or feast upon the downstairs buffet. As we were looking to dine n dash, we decided to go for the breakfast for two, which included: a mixed bread basket, assorted cheese, Italian salami, Serrano ham, olives, marinated mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, tomato mozzarella, pesto, fresh fruit, two hard boiled eggs and fresh orange juice. This is perfect for brunch and set us up to explore the city for the rest of the day.

For lunch – Alex
With a balcony view over the whole of the market square, this is a great place to warm up with a Gluhwein, grab a bite to eat and indulge in some people watching. I can personally recommend the Schnitzel, both puten (turkey) and schwein (pork) and with two meals and a bottle of wine costing less than €40, the price is not going to break the bank.

For dinner – Alte Kuch’n/Im Keller
If you’re looking for traditional Nuremberg fayre, in a traditional Bavarian setting, then Alte Kuch’n and Im Keller offer you just that. Sadly the menu is only available online in German, but their beef fillet and potato dumplings certainly stay true to the ‘just like Grandma makes’ vibe.

From the market
Kartoffelpuffer: Potato pancakes are shallow-fried pancakes of grated or ground potato, flour and egg, often flavoured with grated garlic or onion and seasoning – €3 for three, or €4 with a side sauce.

Nuremburger: Three Nuremberg sausages in a bun, with as much ketchup, mustard and sauerkraut as you can handle – €3

Gluhwein: The German equivalent of mulled wine, but with an additional shot of brandy or rum  – €3.50, plus an additional €3 deposit for the mug, which you can choose to keep as a souvenir if you don’t mind forfeiting the deposit

With a twist
Schöner Brunnen
In the south-west corner of the main square, you’ll find what looks to be an ornate clock tower. After seeing a constant stream of people approaching the tower for a few seconds and then walking away, my curiosity got the best of me and i had to investigate further. After a quick Google, i discovered the ‘clock tower’ was actually a fountain and that people were queuing to turn the “golden ring”.

Legend has it that if you turn the ring three times, you’ll either have your wish come true, or you’ll return to Nuremburg. Having only just got back from my trip, i can’t say how accurate this claim is, but i always like to hope for the best.

Stagecoach tour
For a very reasonable  €4 you can take a 10-15 minute journey around the centre of Nuremberg in a traditional black and yellow post stagecoach drawn by two ponies. The interior is equally stylish, with padded seats that ensure a comfortable ride, despite the cobbled streets.

The post coaches draw a lot of attention from passers by, with some even taking photos, so make sure you have you’re ready to pose.

Stagecoaches leave from opposite the Schöner Brunnen daily during the Christmas Market from 1 – 7pm. Tickets can be bought in advance from the Christmas “post office” hut.


Get cultural

Nazi party rally grounds
The 11 square kilometre area was intended to be an impressive backdrop for the Nazi party rallies, with its pure size used to demonstrate their overwhelming power. In total, six Nazi party rallies were held there between 1933 and 1938.

The permanent exhibition “Fascination and Terror” looks at the causes, context and consequences of the National Socialist reign of terror, including the history of the party rallies, the buildings of the Nazi Party Rally Grounds, the “Nuremberg Racial Laws” of 1935, the “Nuremberg Trials” of the main perpetrators of Nazi crimes in 1945/46 and the twelve follow-up trials, as well as the difficult problem of dealing with the National Socialists’ architectural heritage after 1945.

Opening hours: Mon-Fri 9am – 6pm, Sat-Sun 10am – 6pm
Address: Bayernstraße 110, 90478 Nuremberg
Entrance cost: €5, including audio guide

Memorium Nuremberg Trials
This exhibition shares information about the background, progression and repercussions of the trials, at the original location where they were held. Selected historical exhibits such as parts of the original dock, as well as historical audio tapes and films, convey a vivid impression of events at the Nuremberg Trials.

Opening hours: Wed – Mon 10am – 6pm
Address: Bärenschanzstraße 72, 90429 Nuremberg
Entrance cost: €5, including audio guide
Important note: The courtroom is still an active court, so exhibition visitors will only be able to gain access on days when court is not held there.

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